Charleston
is situated on a narrow, low-lying peninsula between the Ashley and Cooper
Rivers, at the head of a broad bay leading to the Atlantic Ocean. The
rich, vast tidal land of the Lowcountry, which extends from Savannah,
Georgia, to the South
Carolina
coast, is covered by numerous serpentine rivers and streams. If you
are taking a plane to visit the region, make sure to look out of the window
as the airplane descends. While the plane is circling low, you will be fascinated
to see an infinite number of small streams interlocking with each other, forming
a chain of swamps across the Carolinas and Georgia.
Charleston
is home to about 89,000 people, the second largest city in South
Carolina. Its Historic District encompasses hundreds of historic buildings.
Considering that Charleston suffered many calamities -- great fires, earthquakes,
a civil war, and hurricane -- it is remarkable that those structures have survived
to this date. Charleston today boasts 73 pre-Revolutionary buildings, 136 late-18th
century buildings, and more than 600 buildings built prior to the 1840s. Large
antebellum
houses and mansions stand along the narrow cobblestone streets in Charleston.
Antebellum is the term describing something occurring before a war, usually
and in this case, the American Civil War. Typical antebellum houses have open-air
living spaces with courtyards and walled gardens. Numerous old
churches from various denominations remain in the city as well.
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Boone
Hall Plantation in South Carolina
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Charleston's plantations
and gardens can be a good place to get a glimpse into the history and
natural beauty of the Lowcountry. Each is unique and offers a different perspective
and interpretation of the area's antebellum culture and history. During the colonial
period, Africans from West Africa were traded as slaves with high premiums. Rice
was a profitable crop and the Africans knew a lot about cultivating it. The Gullah
culture was formed and nurtured by these African people. Much of it can be traced
back to the African rice coast culture and still can be seen in the local life
style, cuisine and art forms.
HISTORY
The history of Charleston
goes back to the 17th century. Charleston was founded in 1670 as a port city
on the western bank of the Ashley River. The town was originally called Charles
Towne in honor of Charles II, King of England. Three countries, France, Spain,
and England fought to claim ownership in its early stages, but in the end it
was the British that dominated the town.
Charles Towne boomed as
the commercial and shipping center for the region's rice, indigo and cotton
plantations. Between 1690 and 1720, the population of Charles Towne tripled.
Three incentives -- free land, the titles and estates of a landed aristocracy,
and religious freedom -- drew new immigrants mainly from Europe. Charleston,
the cultural capital of the South, has always been one of the busiest ports
of the southeastern United States. From the early 1770s, Charleston's annual
export trade exceeded the tonnage that passed through New York's port, though
Charleston had half the population of New York. As the town boomed, Charleston
also became America's major port in the slave trade - the major labor source
for profitable rice production. By the early 1700s, Charles Towne's population
had an African majority.
Charleston
thrived as the social and cultural center of planter families. Some of the prominent
families included Heywards, Draytons, and Hugers. The residences of plantation
owners reflected extreme wealth - their houses were embellished with silk curtains,
Dutch linens, French china, English silver, and lavish ornamental gardens. The
planters commissioned famous portrait artists and European craftsmen, and gave
extravagant dinners. Sons of the planters traveled to England for their education.
As the planter owners and merchants prospered, they began seeking a social and
cultural lifestyle to match their financial success. The town attracted some
of the most important performers in colonial America. During the 1770s there
were more than 23 singing and dancing masters teaching in the city, which also
had a reputation for turning out the colonies' best Shakespearean productions.
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Behind this extremely wealthy
veneer lay African-American slaves' arduous labor. While planters were on the
retreat during the mosquito season to escape malaria, Africans were to work under
the intense heat of the sun and intolerable humidity. The treatment of slaves
varied from plantation to plantation. Slaves associated with housework received
preferential treatment to those who were field hands. Planters encouraged slaves
to practice Christianity, as it was an effective means of keeping order.Passages
from the bible were interpreted in a way that would instill fear and compliance
into the slaves. Clergymen told slaves to be obedient and faithful to their masters,
as it was 'God's will'. Slavery continued to exist until the Civil War.
Years before
the American Revolution, residents of the Lowcountry became defiant against
British rule, especially with its methods of colonial government and taxation.
The reaction of people in Charles Towne to a tax act in 1765 was violent. Political
disagreement between colonists and the royal governor sparked dissent. Many
citizens got deeply involved on both sides of the issue. In July of 1776, the
Declaration of Independence was signed. However in 1778, the British subdued
Charles Towne and the city remained a British colony until 1782. In 1783 it
was incorporated as a city and its name was shortened to Charleston.
Charleston saw an incredible
construction boom in the early 19th century. However, soon the city went into
a time of hardship. By the 1850s, as the core cotton industry turned less profitable,
the Lowcountry lost its economic power and position of national prestige.
In December
1860, the South Carolina Ordinance of Secession was passed. The next year, Confederate
soldiers fired on Fort
Sumter in Charlston Harbor, and the American Civil War began. The city
endured relentless bombardment, fires, and economic depression. The Civil War
also brought the collapse of slavery, which ended the plantation system, sending
much of the state's economy into depression. Charlestonians received especially
severe punishment because they were known as the secessionists. Some say Charleston
never fully recuperated from the Civil War until it witnessed the subsequent
economic booms during and following the two world wars.
In the 1920s, Charleston's
quaint architectural backdrop attracted a new generation of artists, writers,
poets, and musicians. The city became a mecca for experimental and traditional
artists of all kinds in the 1920s and 1930s.
In the 1970s,
Charleston's Chamber of Commerce launched a national advertising campaign, "Charleston,
American's Best Kept Secret." As a result, Charleston has successfully become
one of the most beautiful, historic, and desirable places to visit in the United
States.
CUISINE
The influence
of African culture is even evident in the local
cuisine. Charleston boasts a variety of southern style cooking using
fresh local ingredients such as shrimp, crabs, oysters, fish, corn, peas, beans,
and greens. Rice is served at nearly every meal. A traditional southern
meal is a mixture of African and European heritage. Like many African
dishes, Lowcountry dishes use okra, peanuts, field peas, and hot peppers. Some
of the local favorites are shrimp and grits, and roasted oysters.
LODGING OPTIONS
The Charleston
area offers a vast array of lodging
options, including quaint bed
and breakfasts, historic
inns, family-friendly motels,
and full-service luxury hotels. For secure online booking, go to the WorldWeb
Travel Guide's™ Online
Reservation System. In addition, the beach communities offer resort
accommodations as well as fully-furnished homes and villas.
HOW TO GET AROUND
If you would
like to visit the countryside outside of Charleston, a car is essential. In
the Lowcountry, points of interest are scattered. However, when you drive through
this vast swampy land that you will discover what the Lowcountry is all about
-- the view of a marsh at sunset, the sight of feeding pelicans, and an abandoned
oyster-shell road strewn with wildflowers. Two interstate highways, four major
U.S. Highways, and seven major state highways serve the area.
When in
Charleston, you can explore the city without a car. Indeed, the best way to
enjoy the historic district is on foot or by bicycle. The city's bicycle shops
offer various types of rental vehicles - bicycles, tandems, and pedal carriages.
For those who wish to explore the city on their own, the Visitor Centers in
Charleston offer guidebooks and maps for walking
tours in the Historic Districts. You may want to take one of the dozens
of tours offered by city-licensed operators. These tours include bicycle
tours, horse- or mule-drawn carriage
tours, boat
tours, and mini-van
and trolley tours. The themes of the tours vary from architecture, gardening,
Civil War history to African-American culture and Jewish heritage.
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You may
enjoy the ride on the Downtown
Area Shuttle buses, which are modeled to look like trolleys. The DASH
makes regular stops along five routes in the Historic District and greater downtown
area. The buses leave the Visitor Reception and Transportation Center regularly
and carry visitors to and from the historic district. Charleston
Area Regional Transit Authority Bus routes serve Mount
Pleasant, Sullivan's Island, the
Isle of Palms, North
Charleston, West Ashley, James Island, Hanahan, and the Peninsula. For
those who are driving, the city has a number of off-street parking facilities.
Greyhound
serves Charleston and area, and points of interest in the surrounding countryside
as well. When planning to travel by bus in more remote areas, consult both a
detailed map and bus schedule, as bus stops are often by request only. Amtrak
provides daily rail service for the north-south corridor. The only station for
Charleston is North Charleston, about 25 minutes from downtown. It takes about
13 hours from New York
Penn Station to North Charleston while it's a 36-hour ride from Chicago.
Some travel
guides state that the first and most important fact about the Lowcountry is
water. Water has been one of the main means of transportation in this region,
and the Intercoastal Waterway provides some of the finest cruising
on the East Coast. Area information and maps are available at most of the local
marinas.
The scenic
way to travel between points in the Lowcountry is by airplane. Several companies
offer a variety of charter, touring, and aircraft rental. Charleston
International Airport is the major airport in Charleston. It's about
a 15-minute drive from the airport to downtown Charleston. Delta, Continental,
USAir, and Midway are the primary carriers. Once you arrive at the airport,
you may want to pick up a rental
car. Advanced reservation for a rental car is advised.
WHEN TO VISIT
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Mailbox
of one of Charleston Houses
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Throughout
the year, Charleston enjoys a warm, semitropical to subtropical climate. The
annual rainfall for the region is about 51 inches, or 129 centimeters. Winters
are generally mild. In January, the average temperature is 55 Fahrenheit, or
13 Celsius. Spring comes early, and farmers usually break ground in February.
In summer, the average temperature is about 82 Fahrenheit, or 28 Celsius. However,
in the summer, sometimes the temperature can reach as high as 100 Fahrenheit,
or 38 Celsius.
Many consider
the best season to visit Charleston is spring, when days are warm and various
flowers blossom. Azaleas, jasmine, dogwood and magnolia are in the gardens and
on the streets. Spring is also the time of a special event, the Spoleto
Festival. This is a showcase for Charleston and held in May and June.
Dozens of theatrical, dance, and musical performances transform the city into
an artistic center, and exhibits of fine art are held and lecture series produced.
SHOPPING
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Charleston, where affluent
British-educated Charlestonians once proudly decorated their homes in English
style, boasts many fine antique
shops with decidedly British taste. Charleston has long been a huge, vibrant
antique market. In the early 1900s, a few antique dealers from New York discovered
Charleston's quality English furnishings. Many of Charleston's old homes were
built to show off fine antique furnishings. Auctions and estate sales are held
regularly in Charleston, and some local dealers and buyers make regular buying
trips to Europe. Ships that carry huge containers filled with early to mid 19th
century English antiques arrive regularly in Charleston Harbor. Early furniture
from Charleston is among the best of the pre-1830 furniture crafted in the U.S.
One particular section along King
Street, between Beaufain and Queen streets, is referred to as the Antique
District, where you will find a high concentration of quality antique shops. If
you are seriously considering buying one of them, make sure to talk to the storeowners,
as there are often back rooms or upstairs galleries reserved for potential buyers.
King Street has also been the heart of Charleston's shopping district for the
past two hundred years.
WHAT TO SEE, WHAT TO
DO
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House
Balcony in Charleston
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As a city with more than 300
years of history, Charleston has many historic "firsts." The first shots of the
Civil War, the first decisive patriot victory of the American Revolution, the
first playhouse in the nation, and the first museum
in America. The Dock
Street Theatre was America's first theater and is situated at Church and
Queen streets. The original building was constructed in 1736. The current structure
is the remodeled one, the former Planters Hotel buit in the early 1800s.
Historic
forts are the most visited attractions in the Lowcountry area. Fort
Sumter is where the Civil War began. On April 12, 1861, after the first
shot was fired and 34 hours of bloodless battle, it was surrendered and the
Confederates held the fort for the next 27 months. Today, what remains of the
fort is a national monument administered by the National Park Service. The fort
houses a museum featuring exhibits of the fort's history. Another famous historic
fort is Fort
Moultrie. Fort Moultrie was originally built in 1776 to guard the harbors.
During the Civil War, it also defended the city.
Charleston
boasts many museum
houses. One of the more impressive historic houses is the Calhoun
Mansion. Built in 1876, the house is one of a few remaining examples
of Victorian palaces. This 25-room, 24,000-square-foot house features original
tile floors and walnut, cherry, and oak woodwork, hand-painted gas chandeliers
and a 45-foot-high ceiling ballroom. On Battery Street overlooking the harbor
is Edmondston-Alston
House. The house displays family documents, portraits, silver pieces
and furnishings, much of it dates back to the 1830s. Aiken-Rhett
House is another house museum that preserves some of Charleston's history
remarkably intact. The original structure was built in 1817 as a typical Charleston
single house and was altered twice; first in the bold Greek Revival and then
the ornamented Rococo Revival style. At the rear of the house, restored slave
quarters and outbuildings stand.
For those
who would like to learn about the history of slave and Gullah
culture, visit some of the impressive plantations. One of the prominent
plantation houses is Drayton
Hall. Built in 1738, this 18th-century Georgian-Palladian dwelling is
often regarded one of the most architecturally significant dwellings in America.
The Middleton
Place is another magnificent plantation house, featuring the oldest
landscaped gardens in America. It took 100 slaves 10 years to finish the terraces,
camellia-lined walks and ornamental lakes. Magnolia
Plantation and Gardens is the 500-acre estate acquired by the Drayton
family in 1676. It features 250 varieties of Azalea and 900 varieties of Camellia.
This plantation also features bike and walking paths, a petting zoo, and a canoe
trail. At Boone
Hall Plantation (see the second photo from the top), nine slave cabins
can be seen amongst the magnificent of oaks.
Charleston
was also the site of America's first golf
course and golf club. In 1786 the South Carolina Golf Club was formed
and established "Charleston Green" in what is now downtown Charleston. The city
offers the golf enthusiast several golf courses that are world class.