| Charleston: Southern Charm Central | |||||||||||||||||||
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Charleston
is situated on a narrow, low-lying peninsula between the Ashley and Cooper
Rivers, at the head of a broad bay leading to the Atlantic Ocean. The
rich, vast tidal land of the Lowcountry, which extends from Savannah,
Georgia, to the South
Carolina
coast, is covered by numerous serpentine rivers and streams. If you
are taking a plane to visit the region, make sure to look out of the window
as the airplane descends. While the plane is circling low, you will be fascinated
to see an infinite number of small streams interlocking with each other, forming
a chain of swamps across the Carolinas and Georgia.
Charleston is home to about 89,000 people, the second largest city in South Carolina. Its Historic District encompasses hundreds of historic buildings. Considering that Charleston suffered many calamities -- great fires, earthquakes, a civil war, and hurricane -- it is remarkable that those structures have survived to this date. Charleston today boasts 73 pre-Revolutionary buildings, 136 late-18th century buildings, and more than 600 buildings built prior to the 1840s. Large antebellum houses and mansions stand along the narrow cobblestone streets in Charleston. Antebellum is the term describing something occurring before a war, usually and in this case, the American Civil War. Typical antebellum houses have open-air living spaces with courtyards and walled gardens. Numerous old churches from various denominations remain in the city as well.
The history of Charleston goes back to the 17th century. Charleston was founded in 1670 as a port city on the western bank of the Ashley River. The town was originally called Charles Towne in honor of Charles II, King of England. Three countries, France, Spain, and England fought to claim ownership in its early stages, but in the end it was the British that dominated the town. Charles Towne boomed as the commercial and shipping center for the region's rice, indigo and cotton plantations. Between 1690 and 1720, the population of Charles Towne tripled. Three incentives -- free land, the titles and estates of a landed aristocracy, and religious freedom -- drew new immigrants mainly from Europe. Charleston, the cultural capital of the South, has always been one of the busiest ports of the southeastern United States. From the early 1770s, Charleston's annual export trade exceeded the tonnage that passed through New York's port, though Charleston had half the population of New York. As the town boomed, Charleston also became America's major port in the slave trade - the major labor source for profitable rice production. By the early 1700s, Charles Towne's population had an African majority. Charleston thrived as the social and cultural center of planter families. Some of the prominent families included Heywards, Draytons, and Hugers. The residences of plantation owners reflected extreme wealth - their houses were embellished with silk curtains, Dutch linens, French china, English silver, and lavish ornamental gardens. The planters commissioned famous portrait artists and European craftsmen, and gave extravagant dinners. Sons of the planters traveled to England for their education. As the planter owners and merchants prospered, they began seeking a social and cultural lifestyle to match their financial success. The town attracted some of the most important performers in colonial America. During the 1770s there were more than 23 singing and dancing masters teaching in the city, which also had a reputation for turning out the colonies' best Shakespearean productions.
Years before the American Revolution, residents of the Lowcountry became defiant against British rule, especially with its methods of colonial government and taxation. The reaction of people in Charles Towne to a tax act in 1765 was violent. Political disagreement between colonists and the royal governor sparked dissent. Many citizens got deeply involved on both sides of the issue. In July of 1776, the Declaration of Independence was signed. However in 1778, the British subdued Charles Towne and the city remained a British colony until 1782. In 1783 it was incorporated as a city and its name was shortened to Charleston. Charleston saw an incredible construction boom in the early 19th century. However, soon the city went into a time of hardship. By the 1850s, as the core cotton industry turned less profitable, the Lowcountry lost its economic power and position of national prestige. In December 1860, the South Carolina Ordinance of Secession was passed. The next year, Confederate soldiers fired on Fort Sumter in Charlston Harbor, and the American Civil War began. The city endured relentless bombardment, fires, and economic depression. The Civil War also brought the collapse of slavery, which ended the plantation system, sending much of the state's economy into depression. Charlestonians received especially severe punishment because they were known as the secessionists. Some say Charleston never fully recuperated from the Civil War until it witnessed the subsequent economic booms during and following the two world wars. In the 1920s, Charleston's quaint architectural backdrop attracted a new generation of artists, writers, poets, and musicians. The city became a mecca for experimental and traditional artists of all kinds in the 1920s and 1930s. In the 1970s,
Charleston's Chamber of Commerce launched a national advertising campaign, "Charleston,
American's Best Kept Secret." As a result, Charleston has successfully become
one of the most beautiful, historic, and desirable places to visit in the United
States.
The influence
of African culture is even evident in the local
cuisine. Charleston boasts a variety of southern style cooking using
fresh local ingredients such as shrimp, crabs, oysters, fish, corn, peas, beans,
and greens. Rice is served at nearly every meal. A traditional southern
meal is a mixture of African and European heritage. Like many African
dishes, Lowcountry dishes use okra, peanuts, field peas, and hot peppers. Some
of the local favorites are shrimp and grits, and roasted oysters. LODGING OPTIONS The Charleston area offers a vast array of lodging options, including quaint bed and breakfasts, historic inns, family-friendly motels, and full-service luxury hotels. For secure online booking, go to the WorldWeb Travel Guide's™ Online Reservation System. In addition, the beach communities offer resort accommodations as well as fully-furnished homes and villas. HOW TO GET AROUND If you would like to visit the countryside outside of Charleston, a car is essential. In the Lowcountry, points of interest are scattered. However, when you drive through this vast swampy land that you will discover what the Lowcountry is all about -- the view of a marsh at sunset, the sight of feeding pelicans, and an abandoned oyster-shell road strewn with wildflowers. Two interstate highways, four major U.S. Highways, and seven major state highways serve the area. When in Charleston, you can explore the city without a car. Indeed, the best way to enjoy the historic district is on foot or by bicycle. The city's bicycle shops offer various types of rental vehicles - bicycles, tandems, and pedal carriages. For those who wish to explore the city on their own, the Visitor Centers in Charleston offer guidebooks and maps for walking tours in the Historic Districts. You may want to take one of the dozens of tours offered by city-licensed operators. These tours include bicycle tours, horse- or mule-drawn carriage tours, boat tours, and mini-van and trolley tours. The themes of the tours vary from architecture, gardening, Civil War history to African-American culture and Jewish heritage.
You may enjoy the ride on the Downtown Area Shuttle buses, which are modeled to look like trolleys. The DASH makes regular stops along five routes in the Historic District and greater downtown area. The buses leave the Visitor Reception and Transportation Center regularly and carry visitors to and from the historic district. Charleston Area Regional Transit Authority Bus routes serve Mount Pleasant, Sullivan's Island, the Isle of Palms, North Charleston, West Ashley, James Island, Hanahan, and the Peninsula. For those who are driving, the city has a number of off-street parking facilities. Greyhound serves Charleston and area, and points of interest in the surrounding countryside as well. When planning to travel by bus in more remote areas, consult both a detailed map and bus schedule, as bus stops are often by request only. Amtrak provides daily rail service for the north-south corridor. The only station for Charleston is North Charleston, about 25 minutes from downtown. It takes about 13 hours from New York Penn Station to North Charleston while it's a 36-hour ride from Chicago. Some travel guides state that the first and most important fact about the Lowcountry is water. Water has been one of the main means of transportation in this region, and the Intercoastal Waterway provides some of the finest cruising on the East Coast. Area information and maps are available at most of the local marinas. The scenic way to travel between points in the Lowcountry is by airplane. Several companies offer a variety of charter, touring, and aircraft rental. Charleston International Airport is the major airport in Charleston. It's about a 15-minute drive from the airport to downtown Charleston. Delta, Continental, USAir, and Midway are the primary carriers. Once you arrive at the airport, you may want to pick up a rental car. Advanced reservation for a rental car is advised. WHEN TO VISIT
Many consider
the best season to visit Charleston is spring, when days are warm and various
flowers blossom. Azaleas, jasmine, dogwood and magnolia are in the gardens and
on the streets. Spring is also the time of a special event, the Spoleto
Festival. This is a showcase for Charleston and held in May and June.
Dozens of theatrical, dance, and musical performances transform the city into
an artistic center, and exhibits of fine art are held and lecture series produced.
SHOPPING
WHAT TO SEE, WHAT TO DO
Historic forts are the most visited attractions in the Lowcountry area. Fort Sumter is where the Civil War began. On April 12, 1861, after the first shot was fired and 34 hours of bloodless battle, it was surrendered and the Confederates held the fort for the next 27 months. Today, what remains of the fort is a national monument administered by the National Park Service. The fort houses a museum featuring exhibits of the fort's history. Another famous historic fort is Fort Moultrie. Fort Moultrie was originally built in 1776 to guard the harbors. During the Civil War, it also defended the city. Charleston boasts many museum houses. One of the more impressive historic houses is the Calhoun Mansion. Built in 1876, the house is one of a few remaining examples of Victorian palaces. This 25-room, 24,000-square-foot house features original tile floors and walnut, cherry, and oak woodwork, hand-painted gas chandeliers and a 45-foot-high ceiling ballroom. On Battery Street overlooking the harbor is Edmondston-Alston House. The house displays family documents, portraits, silver pieces and furnishings, much of it dates back to the 1830s. Aiken-Rhett House is another house museum that preserves some of Charleston's history remarkably intact. The original structure was built in 1817 as a typical Charleston single house and was altered twice; first in the bold Greek Revival and then the ornamented Rococo Revival style. At the rear of the house, restored slave quarters and outbuildings stand. For those who would like to learn about the history of slave and Gullah culture, visit some of the impressive plantations. One of the prominent plantation houses is Drayton Hall. Built in 1738, this 18th-century Georgian-Palladian dwelling is often regarded one of the most architecturally significant dwellings in America. The Middleton Place is another magnificent plantation house, featuring the oldest landscaped gardens in America. It took 100 slaves 10 years to finish the terraces, camellia-lined walks and ornamental lakes. Magnolia Plantation and Gardens is the 500-acre estate acquired by the Drayton family in 1676. It features 250 varieties of Azalea and 900 varieties of Camellia. This plantation also features bike and walking paths, a petting zoo, and a canoe trail. At Boone Hall Plantation (see the second photo from the top), nine slave cabins can be seen amongst the magnificent of oaks. Charleston was also the site of America's first golf course and golf club. In 1786 the South Carolina Golf Club was formed and established "Charleston Green" in what is now downtown Charleston. The city offers the golf enthusiast several golf courses that are world class. |
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